THE PEAT PROVENANCE MYSTERY

Long ago and far away, when distillery tours and live whisky tastings were common, a question could often be heard at events where peated whisky was served: “What’s the PPM of this one?” Curious whisky fans asking this question were searching for the fixed number of phenolic ‘parts per million’ (PPM) that’s often quoted by brand reps and industry figures which, in theory, determines on a sliding scale the level of peat in a whisky. These fans have made the assumption – encouraged by the whisky industry – that the higher the PPM number, the more ‘peaty’ aromas and flavours will be found in the spirit.

By this logic, more peat equals more phenols which therefore equals more smoky aromas and flavours in the glass. The light peat of Benromach, for example, pales next to the 40 PPM of a Laphroaig, while Laphroaig cowers in the face of 80-309 PPM whiskies released by Bruichladdich under its Octomore brand. However, as with so many aspects of whisky, the role of peat in the creation of aromas and flavours we find