Uncorked

Ausone and Cheval Blanc opt out of St-Emilion classification

Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc have caused a stir on Bordeaux’s Right Bank after it emerged they intended to withdraw from the official St-Emilion classification. The news comes ahead of the 2022 edition of the classification, which is revised every 10 years. Ausone and Cheval Blanc reconfirmed their top-tier, premier grand cru classé A rating in 2012, when they were joined by Châteaux Angélus and Pavie.

Ausone said it had been considering its position for some time and a decision was made independently of Cheval Blanc. But both estates suggested that terroir and winemaking don’t feature strongly enough in the classification’s current judging criteria. The grading also takes producers’ market initiatives and tourism provisions into consideration.

Cheval Blanc’s leadership team commented in a letter to Bordeaux négociants: ‘In 2012, we noticed a profound change in the philosophy of the classification, especially regarding new criteria that amount to “marketing drift”.’

For the 2022 classification, tasting scores constitute 50% of the final grade for both grand cru classé and premier grand cru classé levels. There is added emphasis on ageing ability for the latter, with a tasting of the last 15 vintages. Ausone co-owner