Flan

As far as dramatic reveals go, flan takes the cake. Fresh from the oven, it looks like a creamy yet uncomplicated custard—a plain crème brûlée awaiting its burnt sugar gilding. But once delicately released from its ramekin, flan unveils its golden secret. A river of caramel pools into a halo around the jiggly butte-shaped custard, a welcome self-saucing surprise. Though fundamentally simple, flan has captured the hearts and imaginations of bakers across time and space, from ancient Roman palaces to modern Latin kitchens.

The epic of flan begins with an empire known for its decadent tastes: Rome. In particular, citizens of ancient Rome had a voracious appetite for chicken—so much so that in an effort to prevent “moral decay,” a law enacted in 161 BC dictated that only one chicken could be consumed per meal. Their love for the (egg drop soup), and, of course, flan. Like the ancient Greek cheesecake, the ancient Romans’ recipes for flan were decidedly savory (eel flan was a favorite). If it was sweetened, it was with a scant pour of honey. The Romans brought their culinary influence to their conquered provinces, from Germany to Spain. Though the Roman Empire would eventually fall, flan had already taken root as a beloved European delicacy.