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Take stock

@chefmattmoran

IT HAD JUST SNOWED at Matt Moran’s farm in regional New South Wales when delicious. chatted to the chef. “It’s the earliest it’s snowed for who knows how long,” he said. “And as soon as we have that first proper cold snap, I go into soup mode.”

Comforting, hearty, healthy – “soup mode” is essential once winter hits. “Plus, the great thing about soups is you can use up vegetables that are a little old,” says Moran. “Throw in tomatoes that are a bit overripe, or if you go to a farmers’ market and find a guy who sells lots of onions, or capsicums, or great celeriac, grab them! You can make a whole meal out of an ingredient that’s plentiful and at its peak.”

And it’s not just veg that gets the no-waste treatment. “If you roast a chicken or make a roast lamb, never ever throw the bones

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