Indianapolis Monthly

A TOUR OF THE CITY'S BEST DINNING GUIDE

NEW & UPDATED

Aroma ……………………………. 85

Iozzo’s Garden of Italy …… 86

Modita ……………………………. 86

California Burger …………… 95

DOWNTOWN

INCLUDES Fletcher Place, Fountain Square, Mass Ave, Mile Square

Amberson Coffee & Grocer

COFFEEHOUSE The cinderblock shell of a former service station houses this neighbor-hood coffee spot with grocery cases, outdoor seating under the awning, and a drive-up window. In addition to expertly poured vanilla-date lattes and a signature Summer Dandy with Onyx Coffee Ecuadorian espresso, plum reduction, and oat cream sweetened with maple syrup, the shop offers a small daily selection of baked goods, like a tasty “bisquet” grilled up with fig jam and butter, and a scone enriched with Asian pears and maple. Heartier fare comes in the form of an avocado toast topped with goat cheese crumbles or an equally fine toast with ricotta and poached nectarines. 401 S. College Ave., 562-293-8962, ambersoncoffee.square.site

Aroma

INDIAN Familiar tandoori and tikka masala staples mingle with heartier, more elevated offerings at this elegant pan-Indian spot that opened in the former Rook location in early 2021. Lunchtime lamb and chicken rolls in crispy flatbread wrappers stand out, as do hearty chaat dishes dressed up with yellow peas, yogurt, and chutneys. An impressive lamb shank is the highlight of the chef’s specialties and easily feeds two or more. A full bar and an artful array of desserts help round out a special-occasion meal. Opt for the orange pudding, a creamy, lightly sweet rice pudding served in an orange shell with a chocolate tuille and a host of vibrant garnishes. 501 Virginia Ave., 317-602-7117, aromaindy.com

Bakersfield Mass Ave

TACOS & BOURBON This hip spot done up with timbers, steel beams, bourbon barrels, and dangling Edison bulbs does a nice job with all the late-night standards: booze, raucous music, and tacos topped with the likes of achiote-braised pork, pickled red onions, and habanero salsa. 334 Massachusetts Ave., 317-635-6962, bakersfieldtacos.com

Bazbeaux

PIZZA We haven’t forgotten where we first found artichoke hearts and goat cheese on our ’za. Bazbeaux has changed little since 1986, when it opened in Broad Ripple, and it hasn’t really needed to. Flat crust baked crunchy. Toppings you won’t find at Domino’s, like pine nuts and prosciutto. And the cheese—mounds of mozzarella blended with provolone and pecorino. 333 Massachusetts Ave., 317-636-7662, bazbeaux.com

Beholder

CONTEMPORARY A former car-repair shop sets the stage for daring performance art that has featured pig-skin noodles and granita-topped uni designed to melt on the tongue, as well as buttermilk fried chicken with wildflower honey. The labor-intensive cocktails are smart and spot-on. 1844 E. 10th St., 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com

Bluebeard

CONTEMPORARY Bluebeard opened in 2012, and crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’s take on seasonal comfort food, a category she dominates in town as evidenced by her vast collection of national media mentions. Start with the bread baked next door at Amelia’s—it’s especially delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the everchanging menu of small and large dishes. Fried morels may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a comforting butcher-shop Bolognese. For a specialoccasion meal, rent out the private upper-level dining room. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com

Bodhi

THAI Three generations of women form the culinary foundation of this Mass Ave restaurant serving a small, focused menu of Thai dishes like Massaman curry with braised beef and Bodhi’s own version of non-Americanized pad thai. Cocktails get a lot of attention on a drinks list designed by Ball & Biscuit’s Heather Storms. Try the Thai Iced Tea cocktail with bourbon, rye, spiced ginger liqueur, demerara sugar, orange peel, and housemade Thai iced tea. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-941-6595, bodhi-indy.com

Bru Burger Bar

GOURMET BURGERS The patties combine sirloin, chuck, and brisket and are paired with craft beers in a stylish spot off the Cultural Trail. The signature Bru Burger reinvents the bacon cheeseburger with Taleggio, sweet tomato jam, and porter-braised onions. 410 Massachusetts Ave., 317-635-4278, bruburgerbar.com

Cafe Patachou

CAFE The original Meridian-Kessler “student union for adults” continues to draw in the morning crowds and has inspired citywide offshoots, such as this sleek downtown location, a huge hit with the business and weekend hordes alike. The cinnamon toast remains as thick as a brick; the produce is still locally sourced; the massive omelets continue to have cheeky names; and the broken-yolk sandwiches are a perennial lunch favorite. 225 W. Washington St., 317-632-0765, cafepatachou.com

The Capital Grille

CLASSIC A theme of rich decadence permeates this downtown steakhouse adjoining the equally posh Conrad hotel, from the gildedframed pastoral paintings that hang on its dark-paneled walls to the selection of elaborate steaks (one of them drenched in a Courvoisier cream sauce, another flavored with aged balsamic—and some of them dry-aged). The servers are exquisite, of course. 40 W. Washington St., 317-423-8790, thecapitalgrille.com

Condado Tacos

TACOS This flashy Mass Ave outpost of the Ohio-based chain offers a paper menu of build-your-own taco options, from tortilla to sauces. Customers fill in the dots next to their preferred fixings, like the Firecracker hard shell, the housemade chorizo, and the Thai chili tofu. 530 Massachusetts Ave., 317-222-5999, condadotacos.com

Conner’s Kitchen + Bar

CONTEMPORARY At this relaxed restaurant tucked inside the Indianapolis Marriott Downtown, a glowing wall of alcohol separates the dining room from the bar, and deep, all-seasons sofas made for lounging line the sidewalk-side patio. Cocktails like the Prickly Pear Margarita and the Peppered Paloma elevate after-work drinks, and a simple upscale-casual menu focuses on chopped salads and basic dishes done well, like a grilled five-cheese sandwich and a little pail of black-truffle potato chips too addictively light and crispy to share. Whatever dish you choose for weekend brunch, it calls for cereal milk–infused cocktails garnished with Cocoa Puffs. 350 W. Maryland St., 317-405-6100, connersindy.com

The Exchange Whiskey Bar

COCKTAIL BAR Modeled after the original South Bend location, this stylish speakeasy in the historic Hammond Block flatiron building makes a perfect retreat from the bustle of bars around it. Cocktail lovers can choose from more than 450 whiskeys from around the globe in modern pours with such sassy names as Don’t Tell Lies in Heaven, with both bourbon and rye, or in retro classics such as a Lion’s Tail. Bar snacks include charcuterie platters, bacon-topped crostini, pimento cheese dip, and truffle-scented deviled eggs. But the real treat is drinking in the streetside views of the city skyline and the neighborhood, where you can imagine the slow pace of life when the Italianate building was constructed in the 1870s. 301 Massachusetts Ave., 317-943-5000, exchangewhiskeybar.com

Fat Dan’s Deli

MEAT AND POTATOES Brisket cooked for 14 hours is a mainstay of the made-from-scratch menu, as is the house corned beef. Get an order of tots for the table, served on a spread of craft paper, and whatever you do, don’t miss the plump Vienna dogs that will transport you straight to Wrigleyville. 410 E. Michigan St., 317-600-3333, fatdansdeli.com

Fogo de Chao

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