GERMANY
RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS
97 Dr. Loosen 2014 Erdener Prälat Riesling Réserve Alte Reben Dry GG (Mosel). For full review see page 98. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5% Price: $162/375 ml
97 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Abtsberg Riesling GG (Mosel). Struck flint and river rocks introduce this brilliantly steely dry Riesling. Compared to the youthful, almost tropical, charm of the producer’s 2019 Herrenberg GG, lime and grapefruit flavors in the Abtsberg are bracing and linear in youth but suggest a depth and elegance that should reward cellaring. Best to hold till 2024 at least. It should evolve wonderfully through 2035 and hold longer still. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $70
97 Schäfer-Fröhlich 2018 Bockenauer Stromberg Riesling GG Dry Gold Cap (Nahe). Sourced from volcanic soils, this is a smoldering, intensely mineral wine highlighted by streaks of lime and lemon. It’s piercing and concentrated in pure, pristine citrus flavors but powerful and sinewy on the finish. This bold dry Riesling that should reach peak from 2023 and improve well through 2040. The German Wine Collection. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $125
Heady notes of grapefruit and yellow apples perfume this full-bodied, richly concentrated Riesling. Dry in style and lusciously textured, it’s a deeply satisfying, penetrating white that finishes long on. —A.I.
