Australian Traveller

WINE & DINE

In a new light

Peter Conistis, the owner of premier Sydney Greek eatery Alpha, is like a kid in a candy store. As he stands amid power tools and workmen in the Castlereagh Street space, which is nearing the end of an extensive front-to-back renovation when we meet, he points towards the largely finished open kitchen where a new wood-fired oven, smoker and spit roast are ready to be fired up. He tells me that it took seven years to get council approval for their installation due to safety concerns, which is ironic considering there is a fire station right across the road.

Once the kitchen is up and running, under the watchful eye of head chef James Roberts, who has joined

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