National Geographic Traveller (UK)

FROM PLATE TO PLATE

I’ve been told to turn up hungry. Lunch is cocido madrileño, a multi-platter stew that’s Madrid’s signature dish, but attempting to eat it in one sitting is like climbing K2 after a Couch to 5K. “As far as we know, only two diners have ever finished a full cocido madrileño in 125 years,” says Jose Rodríguez, fourth-generation manager of Malacatín.

This former: first the noodle broth, then the chickpeas and potatoes, then the heaped meats (chicken, blood sausage, pig’s trotters etc). You can still try it that way, or have it all dished up at once, but either way you’ll have passed out face-down in salty oblivion before you ever reach the peak.

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