Trieste

Located at the eastern edge of the northern Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, on ancient trade routes that crossed land and sea, Trieste has always been a fairly prosperous place and a melting pot of cultures and traditions. It was there before Roman times, though only became important during that era. The Romans knew it as Tergeste, a name that is believed to have been derived from an old Venetic word, terg, which may have meant ‘market’, while the -este may have meant ‘place’, or may simply refer to its geographical location. Unsurprisingly, given the strategic importance of its location, the city has changed hands numerous times over the centuries since the fall of the Roman Empire, and Latin, Slavic and Germanic cultures have since written its history pages. It became part of Italy in 1920.

There is something about border cities that has always intrigued me and I was looking forward to my visit. I arrived by train early in the morning from my previous destination Venice, stepping into Trieste in the same way James Joyce had in 1904. He stayed until 1920 and produced numerous works here, including his most famous novel, Ulysses. I checked in at the Modernist Hotel on the main road artery through the city, conveniently located for reaching all the major sights of Trieste on foot. After a quick introduction to the city from the hotel’s reception, I set out to join the dots of Trieste’s history by starting at the top.

SAN GIUSTO

San Giusto Hill sits quietly in the backdrop of the harbour, so settled into its surroundings that it can