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It’s easy to miss the Anja Community Reserve. Cresting a ridge on the RN7 highway, my gaze was immediately drawn to smooth-domed granite mountains rearing across the valley. Reaching nearly 1,500m in height, the Three Sisters glowed ochre-red in late-afternoon sunshine. It was only when my driver pointed out the green stubble around the base of the monoliths that I began to focus on the forest.

Just beyond the small town of Anja, we pulled offthe main road and followed a dusty track to where rice paddies and clay-walled houses

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