My Favorite Egg Sandwich
Just down the promenade from our office is an outpost of Joanne Chang’s Flour Bakery, whose offerings have inspired a number of recipes for this magazine, including Andrea Geary’s Chocolate-Espresso Dacquoise (November/December 2012) and my Best Lemon Bars (March/April 2018). But my favorite item on the menu, my go-to lunch when I can’t scavenge something from the test kitchen, has always been the egg sandwich.
What makes it so special? Instead of a runny fried egg that drips and oozes with every bite, a scramble that tumbles out from between the bread, or—the worst scenario—a microwaved slab that’s rubbery and dense, it features an “egg souffle.” While the food nerd in me isn’t quite on board with this term (there’s no air beaten into the egg mixture), I love everything else about it. It’s soft, creamy, custardy, and delicately seasoned, and it stays neatly in place while I devour the sandwich.
Chang tucks a portion of the egg into a house-made focaccia roll along with bacon, cheddar, tomato, and mesclun for a supremely satisfying package of flavors and textures. After months of working from home, I really missed that sandwich. So I looked up Chang’s method for) and set out to make a version of my own.
