Country Life

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ON arrival at a friend’s parents’ house in the deepest Massif Central, the writer John Cornwell summoned up his best prep-school French to ask discreetly for les toilettes . Taking him straight back out of the front door, his hostess exclaimed, with a dramatic sweep of her arm over the surrounding landscape: ‘Mais vous avez toute la France !’

That was the 1970s, when French plumbing (indeed, foreign plumbing of any persuasion) provoked much English sniggering, squeamishness and outright dismay. The horrors of the pissoir, petit coin and other cabinets of horrors remain part of the stock repertoire of British travellers’ tales for anyone over the age of 45.

British plumbing was still resting on its 19th-century laurels, having reached

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