Huck

TRUN THE TIDE

It’s early evening in southern California. Ty Duckett, a stocky Philadelphia native, lies on his surfboard in the ocean. Another man, wearing a bucket hat, stands nearby: he’s chest-deep in the water and gesturing with his hands. Ty, who’s 35 years old, nods in agreement as the ocean pulses around him.

A wave begins to crest. Ty slowly paddles his way into it and presses his torso up, forming, for a brief moment, a hypotenuse triangle between his body, his outstretched arms, and the board. He firmly plants his right foot, as his back leg does a full 180 degree sweep to the front of the board. Only then is it clear that Ty, a black man on a beach that was once segregated, is surfing with a prosthetic leg.

The man in the bucket hat, now cheering at the top of his lungs, is David Malana, the founder of Color The Water: a Californian surf collective, made up entirely of people of colour, that sprang up during the aftermath of George Floyd’s killing at the hands of police officers.

“I guess you could say I’m the founder of this thing, but it’s everyone’s, man,” David says, his tone soft. “It’s everyone who brings what they are that makes this special. I’m just a vessel letting it move through me.”

A few hours earlier, I’m watching as the Color The Water crew ready their surfboards for the evening session. Everyone is hanging at the clubhouse (a makeshift surf spot, based out of an Airbnb property that David rents

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Huck

Huck6 min read
Finding His Voice
When Bongeziwe Mabandla released his third album, iimini, a day after South Africa went into full lockdown, it was a blessing in disguise. “I’m glad I did that, because people could listen to it without a lot of distractions,” says the award-winning
Huck10 min read
Blindboy Boatclub is Huck 80’s Artist-In-Residence.
Musician, comedian, podcaster, writer and philosopher, Blindboy Boatclub is a cultural figurehead and one of Ireland’s foremost artistic voices. He has published two number-one bestselling books of short stories: The Gospel According to Blindboy and
Huck7 min readIntelligence (AI) & Semantics
The Future Is Written
THE CURRENT STATE OF MEDIA journalism could perhaps be summed up by an off-the-cuff tweet I wrote in July: “It’s so depressing that I’ve gone into every job I’ve had in media knowing I’ll probably be laid off at some point if I don’t leave first.” I

Related