Going Places

It was an especially sunny morning in March during Paris Fashion Week. Guests chatted among themselves as they sat in a winding plastic bubble, a labyrinth set a garden courtyard, waiting Kenzo start. Then, suddenly, music began pounding as the first model appeared, wearing a sombre, all-black elongated suit jacket and a hooded cape that obscured half of his face. He was followed by models draped in a series of tunics and utilitarian wrap coats.

A few people cocked their heads in surprise—gone were the giant logos, the midriff-baring athleisure and the cartoon tigers stitched to the chests of sweaters, signatures of Kenzo’s previous creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. This was Kenzo by its newly appointed steward, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who means to strip the brand down to its core. “Kenzo’s been doing elaborate