Baked beans and a nice Chianti

DURING one winter season in London, the expatriate American novelist Henry James dined out every single evening. James was a sociable bachelor, so perhaps the attractions of eating at home had never been particularly strong, but one can only marvel at his stamina—and look back to an age before war and pandemic with a touch of nostalgia and envy.

Opportunities to eat out have been severely limited over recent months and even the reluctant chefs among us have become better acquainted with pots and pans. Eating simple, tasty, home-cooked suppers has become more a part of our routine than ever. So, too, should be the opening