SHAKEN & STIRRED
The full moon broke free of the clouds and lit up a winter wonderland off the ship’s bow. In every direction stretched a delicate layer of new sea ice, some sections glowing white and others imperceptibly dark against pools of inky water. There were cracks and ridges, streaks and smudges. A gentle swell from the nearby open water morphed the icescape minute by minute.
We had been motoring north from Nome, Alaska, for four days. This was our first sighting of
