THE GOURMET IN GLASGOW

– all wood and brick with a corrugated-iron bar – gets credit for kick-starting modern Scottish cuisine. The restaurant opened in 2013 and makes a big deal out of provenance, establishing a chain of suppliers to ensure the asparagus, foraged greens, pork, lamb, beef, fish and handmade butter are only hours from their source. The seasonal six-course degustation is the evidence: Hebridean herring with roe, Patterson’s Farm Luing grass-fed beef, Shetland squid, Peelham Farm pork, kombucha-cured Gigha halibut, North Sea monkfish and Borders hogget. But, to be honest, you’d go for the dinky little pudding oozing hot white chocolate and caramel sauce with a dollop of ice cream wherever it came from. There’s a full vegetarian tasting menu, too. Earlier this year, the