beyond the MIGRATION
In a grassy spot under an acacia tree, a few hundred metres uphill from our simple fly-camp in the northern Serengeti, is a sizeable bull elephant. On other safaris, in other circumstances, this would be nothing remarkable. But there’s something about fly-camping and bushwalking that gives every wildlife encounter a particularly vivid edge. As I take a few steps forward for a closer look, it’s almost like seeing an elephant for the first time.
Without the reassuring elevation of a vehicle, I feel smaller. By attempting to measure the elephant’s distance from us in paces, I feel closer. And by focusing on the faint breeze — its direction, the delicate aromas it wafts towards us and the tiniest noises it carries — I feel acutely attuned to my surroundings.
Our guide, Alex Walker, and our Hadza tracker, Njile, are scuffing the ground with their toes to
