Savory: the forgotten herb

When did you last see a recipe that included the herb “savory”? Thyme, yes — and there is plenty of basil or fresh coriander in modern recipes.But for some reason, while our cooking has embraced herbs from across the world, we seem to have forgotten old-fashioned savory. Which is a pity, because savory is one of the most delicious herbs and one of the easiest to grow. My “secret” lemon sauce is wonderful because I add a branch of savory, coconut milk and lemon juice to the stock as the sauce slowly simmers and thickens.

There are two “savories”. Summer savory is an annual; it