New Zealand Listener

The back of beyond

“My baby kept me busy, and I sewed, knitted, read, and kept the tins full …”

‘Road not recommended,” read the sign. It wasn’t bloody joking. Beyond its plain, wry warning was a narrow, unrelenting snake of a road, a thing of gravel and grief that wound for 32 long kilometres through Skippers Canyon above Otago’s Upper Shotover River.

In spring, there would be washouts and landslips. In winter,

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