Country Life

Rock of ages

DEHYDRATED in long, shallow pans, then scraped up and poured into great plastic colanders, it looks like nothing more than the beginnings of a snowman. Pure, driven snow, crunched together and ready for moulding—but, of course, it’s not snow. Closer inspection reveals that it’s salt, white crystals, dried and ready for deployment.

Salt from Droitwich Spa was once some

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