Lonely Planet Magazine India

WHEN IT RAINS, EXPLORE

1 CELEBRATE SOLITUDE IN KAKKAYAM, KERALA

Kerala in the monsoon is a favourite with travellers and it’s not hard to see why. Covered in shades of green and blue, it’s the time when all of Kerala comes alive. While every corner of the state is worth visiting during the rains, pack your bags and make a trip to the north, to discover a lesser-known gem. Tucked away in the Malabar Wildlife Sanctuary, Kakkayam is the perfect getaway for those who enjoy solitude. Kakkayam takes the whole ‘sleepy village’ vibe very seriously, so you’re better off slowing down and adjusting your rhythm to suit your surroundings. Still, take the time out of your ‘do-nothing’ schedule and visit Kakkayam Dam, located 14km from the town market. Stretch your legs and walk to the Urakuzzhi Waterfalls. Find a spot on the suspension bridge and watch in awe as the waterfall tumbles down the mountain side. If you don’t mind clocking in a workout, take on the 45-minute climb up the hillside, starting from St. Thomas Mount. In the mood for some serious cardio? Attempt the three-hour hike that starts from across the road from St Thomas Mount, through the forest, all the way to Thenginkunnu. The undergrowth here is rather dense; make sure you take a guide along to avoid getting lost. That workout is sure to work up a sweat, so head over to Pappanjadikuzhi to cool off. With so many natural pools, taking a dip will seem rather tempting, but do so only with caution, as the rapids are quite powerful during the monsoon. End your trip with a long, leisurely ride to the Thusharagiri Falls.Although only the lower level is open during the rains, the white waters make it worth the effort.

STAY

Kakkayam Homestay: 00-91-94961-34813; www.riverviewkakkayam.com,kakkayamvalleyhomestay@gmail.com; Kariyathumpara, Calicut; from₹ 1,900

02 HIT THE HILLS IN IGATPURI, MAHARASHTRA

Tucked away in the heart of the Sahyadris, Igatpuri is far from a well-kept secret. Over the years, this little hillstation, which, at 3,230ft, is Igatpuri’s pride. Make a pitstop to capture a photo of the famous , whose ornate gold pagoda stands tall among the tiny village homes. When you reach the village at the base of the fort, ask a local to accompany you. One will do so willingly, at the cost of a small fee.As you continue your journey, stop at the ruined at the foot of the hill. Marvel at the broken statues and chipped carvings, all under the watchful eye of a statue of Buddha that lies in the inner sanctum.Although the climb uphill does gain altitude, it’s a rather easy one. Trek past plateaus and boulders as you inch closer to the small ridge adjoining the fort. Don’t be too surprised if you find yourself using your hands to help you get up the steep steps, slick with rain and with the marked absence of railings. This slightly rough patch is worth the struggle; it ends right at the foot of a beautiful , near the carved entrance of the fort. Take a moment to soak up the stunning views, especially of the Kulang and Kalsubai mountain ranges covered in mist. Stretch your legs and enjoy the view for as long as you can, it’s one unique to Igatpuri. Once you head back down and bid farewell to your guide, hit the highway and make one last pitstop for some chaiandbhajjias– the best way to deal with chilly monsoon winds. Indulge in avadapavwhile you’re at it too; Igatpuri is famous for this humble snack and, besides, you’ve earned it!

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