Lonely Planet Magazine India

ultimate EATS

DENMARK

Grab a slice of smørrebrød , Copenhagen’s bread of heaven

Want to know what the best thing is since slicedbread? Danish smørrebrød, that’swhat. Take a slice of rye bread, butter it, then heap it with whatever tasty ingredients you like.

Actually, it’s not that simple. There are some rulesthathelpelevate smørrebrødbeyond a piece of bread with toppings. Thin toppings go on first, followed by the bulkier kind; second, when eating more than one kind of smørrebrød at once (this is always the case – good luck stopping at one), you start with the slice that features herring, move on to other fish, then meat and finish with cheese. This sequence is designed to walk your palate through the flavour combinations, so that one never overpowers the other.

There are some classic combinations you’ll see all over Denmark: pickled herring, onion and dill; mayonnaise, boiled egg, shrimp, dill and lemon; roast beef, pickles, onions and horseradish. But these are just a tiny sample of the almost limitless number of toppings.

Copenhagen’s smørrebrødinstitution, Restaurant Schønnemann has been serving the open-faced sandwich since 1877. The presentation is so delicate it resembles sushi. Try the following for an ultimate smørrebrød experience, otherwise known as the world’s best sandwich degustation: herring marinated in dill cream with capers, onions and a fried egg; smoked salmon and halibut with a crab and mayonnaise salad, tomato and basil; a breaded cutlet of pork with apples, thyme and onions; and camembert with blackcurrant jam. And to drink? Why, there’s 140 different schnapps, aquavit and genevers to choose from. That should do nicely.

EAT UP

For the ultimate sandwich tasting, head to , or grab a takeaway box from Aamanns (.

GREECE

When night falls over Athens, tuck into souvlaki

It’s late night in Athens, and the seductive aroma of herby grilling meats is beckoning you towards an open doorway. The Greek take on the nocturnal flatbread sandwich format is fresher and healthier than most. A is composed of grilled meat (chicken, pork, lamb or beef), a salad of tomato, red onion and cucumber, and some refreshing , all wrapped in a large soft flatbread. The meat is the crucial ingredient. Skewers of small chunks are grilled and flavoured with herbs, salt and lemon juice. Vegetarians are not forgotten: a grilled halloumi is an equally wondrous end to a legendary night out in

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