Australian Traveller

HINTERLAND & HAMLETS

WHERE, I WONDER, is the appropriate place to check the big black dog’s pulse? Perhaps two educated fingers tenderly applied above the right forepaw? Fortuitously, the doggy doormat snorts, shudders and spasms back to life. She is an immaculate obstruction, strategically splayed out the precise width of Amamoor General Store’s doorway to ensure she will receive paramount attention.

“Oh, you want to get through,” exclaim her up-turned eyes, face still melted onto the floorboards. Sluggishly she rises, sways six steps, and plops down again. Inconceivably quickly, her flanks bellow with a slumber reserved for those at ease with their existence.

Amamoor is 45 squiggly kilometres west of Noosa, one of a sprinkling of charming unsung hamlets along the spine of the Mary Valley. The valley, named for the river that snakes its way through, is billed as Noosa’s hinterland, but it feels more like the hinterland’s hinterland; hinterland-squared, if you will. The drive from the Sunshine Coast’s chic capital shouldn’t be measured in kilometres or minutes – beats per

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