A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS
In 1980 I went to Hawaii to surf in the big events at Sunset, where the World Cup was held that year. I was 15 years old and Australian Women’s Champion at the time, and was invited by Randy Rarrick and Fred Hemmings. It was terrifying! The sets were 10 to 12-foot, bigger, massive. I broke my leg rope and then my board and came second last in both my heats, thank god. The big girls like Margo Oberg, Lynne Boyer, Brenda Scott Rogers and Debbie Bowers went well. Margo and Lynne in particular charged – they were pulling into inside Sunset closeout barrels. I just thought,
