LEARNING
It’s a smoky spring afternoon and my girlfriend Emily and I are at Pine Tree.
The nearby Cape Le Grand National Park is ablaze and visibility is poor, but we have the beach to ourselves. And I’m surfing! Well, sort of. For months I’d endured an on-again-off-again relationship with this beautiful yet mostly thankless endeavour that had, to date, given me little in return. But persistence pays off, as they say.
Every second upright on my ancient
