JOSH TABONE
A few days before I took this shot, I was halfway down the coast working at a bodyboarding event. I try not to look at the charts when I'm busy on a job but there were plenty of whispers around the comp site of a crazy swell due to hit the day after the event finished, which only intensified as the week wore on.
As soon as the final wrapped up on the Sunday, I jumped into my car and headed south
