NATHAN OLDFIELD
Dec 12, 2018
2 minutes
I grew up at a heavily localised wave, a little piece of reef beneath a sea cliff that hosted a slab style wave with a tiny, hotly contested takeoff spot. If you weren't from there, you weren't welcome. It was all about black wetsuits, clear boards, death stares and macho insecurity, mixed with a general undercurrent of violence.
I watched people get
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