ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SURFING
for this monster project of mine. So flat and dry. The verbal opposite of surfing, and all the joy and comedy and frustration that comes with it. The title made more sense 20 years ago, when I starting writing the print version of Encyclopedia of Surfing. On Amazon, EOS has a two-star Amazon reader review where the person says, with great disappointment, “It an encyclopaedia.” And fuck off, but… you’re right. The book is 780 pages of double-column Times Roman text, decorated with just a handful of black-and-white pics. There was nothing half-assed about EOS. It was every bit a full-assed A-through-Z reference tool, and if I blew apart deadline after deadline (research to publication was four years), it came out exactly an encyclopaedia!
You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.
Start your free 30 days