IN THE BEGINNING
Want to know the Champ?
Then you need to know his one-of-a-kind mama.
How about we start at the beginning. Back in 1986, when Alex Florence from Ocean Grove, a Christian seaside community in New Jersey (yeah, the not-so-glam part of New York), told her parents she was going to the North Shore and asked if they’d, like, mind, driving her to La Guardia airport?
The surfing thing had been in her ever since she was 12. By the time she was the sweetest of sixteens, she was soaking her brain every day in surf movies like Beyond Blazing Boards, riding skateboards all over town and surfing in oversized wetsuits.
With a backpack and a skateboard and a couple of c-notes in her purse, the lil’ blonde teenager landed in Honolulu, walked out
