Cutler & Co.
Aug 27, 2017
4 minutes
Words — Mark Scruby Photography — Earl Carter
It’s not inaccurate to talk about Andrew McConnell’s folio of restaurants as an empire, but there’s something about that very commercial language that just doesn’t feel right. Because anyone who’s eaten at Supernormal or Cumulus Inc. or Ricky & Pinky or Meatsmith – yes, the list keeps growing – knows how lovingly he crafts entire dining experiences. Sure, you do have to pay at the end, but McConnell’s ability to bring together incredible food, slick-but-warm service and sophisticated interior fitouts is antipodean to the kind of “rack ‘em up, roll ’em out” ruthlessness that the word “empire” implies.
At the centre of this – no, not empire, universe? –
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