HOW TO SURF
-SHRED
You know when you’re set. It’s a sensory consummation as much as it is a physical affirmation. Feet in the right place, weight distribution balanced and timing on point. The first bottom turn sets the arc and everything else follows. There are waves, sessions and moments in every surfer’s life where flow of information connects with the movements.
But there’s always room for improvement. It doesn’t matter if you’re an aspiring pro, weekend warrior or anything in between. You want to rip.
Here are a few ways to help you get your shred on.
SURF WITH PEOPLE BETTER THEN YOU
Need shallow compliments to keep your performance afloat? Keep surfing with an average crew. There’s no room for back slapping sycophants here. If you genuinely want to improve, surf with those better than you. The Dairy Bowl rat pack from the 90s is an excellent example. No other collective showed a steeper trajectory in performance than showcased by Davey Weare, Simon Nicholson, Dane Patterson, Travis Logie, Warwick Wright, Jordy Smith et al. Week in, week out they pushed hard. Cycles of watching, questioning, testing, failing and revising.
Simply put, there’s no better tutorial than observation. Today, other deep talent pools can be found at Long Beach, Vic Bay and Nahoon Reef, so watch and learn.
SURF ONSHORE WAVES
Surfing crap waves will show you where energy pockets lie on the water surface. Hidden amongst the white horses, screaming winds and blue bottles, you have to dig them out. Find the energy yourself or the board speed dies. Discover how to tap into the source on shitty days and you’ll be razor sharp on the good days. Anyone can surf well on clean waves. Not everyone can kill it on average days. But the ones who master the bad stuff can turn shit to gold in any conditions. Also, your reaction time to sections is heightened when surfing the onshore funk. You can see the ‘smooth water’ amongst the mess and lay into it. Master the junk and results will follow. Case in point: Kelly Slater grew up in Cocoa Beach, Florida.
DON'T BLINDLY FOLLOW THE TOUR BVZZ
It’s conservative and one dimensional. Besides, the surfers at that level are there for a reason. Don’t try and surf like them. Be unique in your approach, it’s rewarding pulling something off that’s 100% original. Same goes for the tour boards. Not everyone can surf the CT blades, so ride a board designed around your technique. Be honest about your limitations and where you want to go on a wave. It’s definitely not in the same areas as Jordy Smith or Filipe Toledo. Be yourself and back your own style.
CHANGE YOUR ENVIRONMENT
Change coastlines, tap into fresh stimulus, discover new surroundings, ride different waves with people you’ve never met, shed a fullsuit for boardies, become a surfing chameleon. Adaptation is key to survival. It’s also a damn good way to improve your surfing. New environments ask different questions of your approach. For example, the water in Cape Town is dense, molecules packed tighter than a Safair flight after an online sale. When you hit
