Surfing Life

STORM UPGRADE

The clichéd and repetitive hypothesis behind the Brazilian upwelling into professional surfing is that these young surfers are always incredibly desperate, relentlessly driven, and are fighting for their very existence every single heat of their lives. They will therefore stop at absolutely nothing to win, and every victory in every single heat keeps the wolves from the door just a few days more, allowing them to buy food, and look after their parents and children.

It’s a wonderful and almost romantic premise with poverty, struggle, angst, rebellion, redemption and catharsis in the mix – the themes that can make for any good story. It hasn’t been like that for everyone, however.

The two brilliant Brazilian surfers who started the prefrontal drizzle of the current storm were two dynamic young rippers,

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