Surfing Life

THE FAMILY

ON THE COVER:

"When you were taking off, I swear to god it looked like you were taking off on a closeout.

That was pretty mind-bending. To try and get yourself deep enough to get into the nines you had to go to a point where in your brain you’re going, 'I’m for sure not making this', and then you make it. That’s when ya got a nine", Owen recalled (The Big 'O', p. 78) of the twoCOVER SHOT BY

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