THE NUT JOB
Oct 13, 2019
4 minutes
Simon Farrell-Green is North & South’s food director.
Photography by Rebekah Robinson.
Remember when you didn’t ask what brand a peanut butter was, but just had to decide whether you’d like crunchy or smooth? When you opened it, it sat there like a flat, cold, dead thing. It tasted sweet and unremarkable, with very little of that glorious roastedness. For years, true peanut-butter obsessives fought back, even going as far as making their own or visiting bulk-bin shops where they could grind their nuts to bespoke perfection.
No longer! If you’ve spent any time browsing in the supermarket of late, you might have noticed the category has “spread” across rather a lot
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