WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2020
ondon is theatre. It is materials and colours. It is all about , and renewal. The stage set behind the curtain. The show. London welcomes the arts and embraces inspiration. It incorporates opera, music and dance. The gestures of the body. Light and shade. Stage, stalls, circle, the shadowy orchestra pit. Veiled women enter and . These are Simone Rocha’s women. They walk inside an 19th century Victorian theatre. They tell of Irish culture, looking pretty, pale and yet dark at the same time. Wearing the mystery of an ancient song, they enact the traditional ‘Wren Hunt’. Silent inhabitants in big old houses, wrapped in wallpaper and embraced by minute red and blue flowers, ceramics, delicate , , , , and embroidery. The Bloomsbury garden transforms into a scenic space. Erdem’s girls are the enchanting protagonists of a contemporary Mexican fairy tale, poetic counter-figures of Tina Modotti. They dress in immaculate, understated, with . They wear refined sombreros, harmoniously teaming with elegiac references. Roksanda’s dream-like women glide over the runway like characters in a Greek tragedy. They wear contemporary and . The skin covered in , the shoulders concealed by voluminous or soft . Bora Aksu’s Persian princesses star in a delicate, refined opera, featuring pastel tones, romantic and regal looks, and a whirl of flounces, and tulle. JW Anderson’s girls are precious and changeable. They move as though driven by the wind. Swarovski-encrusted cinch the waist or encircle the bust. Chalayan’s Sadler’s Wells show offers a conceptual, sober, elegant spectacle. The clothes are shaped around the body in waves, expressing movements like the textile elements of a contemporary dance. Colours dominate the London imaginative arena. Victoria Beckham’s collection offers a range of intense shades, spanning purple, emerald, turquoise and Sienna. Roland Mouret goes for lighter hues of cream, peach, antique blue, sapphire and lilac. The Burberry show is a representation of , : , , , , , silk, white lace and . Ports 1961 opts for new colour combinations that resemble Matisse paintings, with allnew graphic motifs, and plissé. An oriental theatre is proposed by Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, starring , and . David Koma fills the arena with African references, channelling an edgy aesthetic through zebra patterns and in the shape of rhinoceros and antelope heads. A capital city that knows how to be universal, providing drama and comedy, and exhibit excellence along the way. A vivid spectacle. Theatre.
