RETURN TO TUNUYAN

When Ben Stookesberry and Silvio Gurrieri first paddled the Tunuyan together, few had heard of or seen the deep chasms hidden in the Andes. For Stookesberry, it was a trip that defined expedition kayaking: a logistic-ridden, hiking intensive, off the beaten path adventure; an extremely challenging, multi-day river passage only possible in a whitewater kayak. 14-years later, little had changed, other than the imminent reality that hydropower will likely soon submerge the river’s raw, powerful beauty. Motivated by Nouria Newman and Robert Derias to experience the river at least once more, it was time to return to the Tunuyan.

A flood of memories fills my mind as we make our way down from the near 15,000 foot-Andean mountain pass, our boats balanced precariously on the backs of donkeys. Nouria Newman, Robert Derias, and Augustin Parietti were still in primary school when Silvio Guerrieti and I last paddled together on the Tunuyan 14 years ago. In reality, our group of five is heading into this mission at the wrong time of year. But with two large scale hydro-electric facilities recently approved for 14,000 hector watershed, the time to return to a still-wild Tunuyan is now.

“What she sees is a vertical-walled box canyon in the absolute depths of this massive Andean Canyon that is, “Good to go.” When I take the binoculars, the magic fades and I say, “Portage.”

Day 1 - Refugio Scarabeli - Elevation: 10,104’(feet)

8 pm : Robert stands outside the centuries-old stone-hut in the fading light, spitting rain and ferocious wind, deep concern in his eyes. I imagine what he is thinking: 15,000-foot pass, December, this weather, that river, the unknown.

When Robert told me the Tunuyan was on for the end of December, I found it strange. Both successful descents took place in March, the beginning of fall in the high Andes. Both unsuccessful descents did not happen in March. When I spoke with Silvio, he said that the river is different now;“It’s drier, and December is the time.” When Nouria