Joshua Skenes is Hot for Open Fire Cooking
It always felt a bit incongruous to see Joshua Skenes dressed in a hunting cap and plaid flannel shirt while running the kitchen at Saison, his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco.
On my last visit, about a year ago, the food was spectacular, but it had changed significantly, revealing a rustic, primal quality. Instead of the manicured plates you find at similarly starred restaurants, the three courses were meant to be eaten out of hand, and some dishes were served family style.
I wondered where the restaurant was heading, especially when Skenes admitted he was losing interest in preparing small bites of manipulated food, the hallmark of fixed-price tasting menus.
It became apparent why Skenes decided
