OLD-FASHIONED ROOT CROPS FOR THE WINTER GARDEN

Serious gardeners, small-scale market farmers, and the managers of community-supported agriculture (CSA) programs are always on the lookout for unique crops — especially those they can harvest through winter. Many restaurateurs also support seasonal eating by shopping for unusual, local ingredients to fill out their menus during the chilly months. We need not look too far to find interesting options because an array of old-fashioned crops is well-suited to take up the call where summer vegetables leave off. I’ve grown crosnes (Stachys affinis), skirret (Sium sisarum), and salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) for more than 35 years and have gotten to know them well. They’re the “three sisters” of my winter garden, and they’ve kept my table amply supplied with unusual and delightful dishes.

All three of these epicurean treasures remain fairly close to their wild ancestors. Perennial crosnes and skirret are hardy in Zones 4 to 8. Salsify is a Mediterranean crop and, as a biennial, requires a winter rest period. It’s hardy in Zones 6 to 8 (or into colder Zones if given ample winter protection). Aside from their preference for sandy loam, all three