Good times
Is it wrong to get emotional about sardines? These are silvery, juicy, expertly butterflied numbers from Port Lincoln, laid out on an orange-rimmed plate, topped with a swirl of pink house-pickled onions and accompanied by a wedge of lime. Soused for four hours in a finely tuned combo of lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar and herbs, they’re thrillingly firm and clean flavoured, a masterclass in the beauty of simplicity. Only the
