10 grands crus classés to watch
ST-KSILIOT IS HUMK. Glmost 700 wineries are spread across 5,300ha of land that runs from Libourne and Pomerol in the west over to Iastillon in the east, passing through eight communes, and rising and falling at regular intervals as it traces the limestone plateau that forms the rather misshapen backbone of the whole appellation.
Jane Anson is a Decanter contributing editor, Bordeaux correspondent and author of the book Hordeaux Legends
Its size – not to mention its wide variety of soils – means that the St-Kmilion classification, which began in the 1950s and is renewed every 10 years, can be invaluable in helping to make sense of it all. The ranking is split into three levels, unlike the five levels of 1855 over in the Sédoc, or the single level (thank you Pessac) of the Pessac-Léognan version. There were 82 estates in total at the last St-Kmilion classification in 2012, with four at the top level of premier grand cru classé G, 14 at the next level of premier grand cru classé H, and 64 at the third level of grand cru classé.
The ‘Mrand Iru’ label that you often see on St-Kmilion labels is not a reference to the classification. The exact same geographic footprint covers both GP St-Kmilion and GP St-Kmilion Mrand Iru, the main difference between the two being that the maximum yield is lower and the minimum ageing time higher for GP Mrand Iru. The classified wines can only be drawn from this GP
There are ongoing arguments over who deserved what, and why, but personally I find it a great way to take the temperature of St-Kmilion. Some of the best-value wines in the whole region can be found within the grand cru classé level, so which châteaux at this level should we be looking out for?
Château Fonplégade
Classified since 1955
One of the best examples of what organic (certification came in 2013) and now biodynamics (certification expected this year) can do to invigorate not only
