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  • Cook's Illustrated

    KITCHEN NOTES

    Aug 06, 2019 5 minutes
    BY STEVE DUNN
    ANDREA GEARY
    ANDREW JANJIGIAN
    LANLAM

    WHAT IS IT?

    Shaped like a modern-day juicer with a large hopper and a spout protruding from its base, this kitchen tool dating from the early 1900s is a Katzinger cake filler.

    Used by commercial bakers to fill pastries such as doughnuts and eclairs with cream or jelly, this timesaver was the brainchild of Austrian-born tinsmith Edward Katzinger, founder of a Chicago-based company that also manufactured commercial baking pans.

    Measuring about 18 inches tall and 8 inches wide, the cake filler has a cast-iron base and a tin hopper. To use the tool, a baker would load the hopper with jelly or a cream filling, adjust the throw of the plunger lever to extrude the proper amount of filling, pierce the pastry with the extrusion nozzle, and then

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