The Advocate

Tokyo Time

It is 4 p.m. on a Sunday in July and the streets of the Shinjuku Ni-chōme neighborhood are empty. However, appearances are not reality. This area of Tokyo has the world’s highest concentration of gay bars (an estimated 350). But it takes a guide to find the hidden gems.

I found my guide in Graham Kolbeins, the director of the documentary . With dyed-pink hair and an impressive beard, he leads me down a narrow alley with a concrete floor to . The bar is owned by Toh Ogura, also known as Margarette, a drag performer famous in Tokyo.

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