THE TIME TRAVELLER

There’s a deliciously warm coastal breeze as I stand on the top of Cartagena’s castle hill, and as I look at the landmarks around me it feels as though I’ve travelled through time. There’s Concepción Castle, rebuilt by the Moors in the 13th century, looking over the town and out to sea. From within the fortress walls I can see a huge Roman amphitheatre. To the front is the natural harbour, a major target during the Spanish Civil War. And there’s a glimpse of modern buildings on the outskirts of town, where most of the people working in the city live.

Since the Spanish government set about making Cartagena a major tourist destination in the early 2000s, it has sprung