100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS: THE RECIPES

Oak-Grilled Quail with Citrus and Fennel

Quail is great for summer grilling: It cooks fast, has great flavor and begs to be eaten with your hands. At the restaurant, this is cooked over oak, but you can use a cast-iron grill pan.

Courtesy Chris Carlson, chef/partner, Maverick Texas Brasserie, San Antonio, TX

1 green apple
1 small bulb fennel
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
Salt
1 blood orange
1 grapefruit
Juice of 1 Meyer or regular lemon
4 semi-boneless quail
1 head frisée

Peel apple, trim fennel, and slice both very thin. Coat sauté pan with olive oil and place over medium heat. Add apple, fennel and pinch of salt. Cook until fennel is soft, about 15 minutes.