AFAR

Connecting in Kenya

IT HAPPENED IN the middle of the vast savanna of Kenya’s Maasai Mara. I was sitting on a portable stool in the shade of an acacia tree, eating breakfast with Nelson, my Maasai guide, and Peter, the safari director from Micato Safaris, who was traveling with me. Nelson had just told me that he moonlights as a livestock herder.

“So,” I asked him, “how many cattle do you have?”

Peter began to chuckle over his Scotch egg. Soon Nelson joined in. I wondered what was so funny.

“Never ask a Maasai how many cattle they own!” Peter exclaimed.

“That’s like asking someone how much money they have in the bank,”

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