5280 Magazine

Mystical Pizza

WHITE PIE

1702 Humboldt St. 303-862-5323 whitepie.com

THE DRAW:

New Haven–inspired pizzas, excellent fresh pastas, well-composed drinks

THE DRAWBACK:

Salads need work

NOISE LEVEL:

Moderate

DON’T MISS:

Pizzas (especially the white, Fuggetaboutit, and pepperoni), arancini, lasagna, gnocchi, chicken Parmesan

A few years ago, I became obsessed with seeing how thin I could make my pizza crusts. After stretching and resting the dough, I would drape it over my fists and stretch it even farther until translucent, as if I were making strudel. What emerged from the oven was blistered, black on the bottom, and brittle to its edges. Was it even pizza? I suppose so: baked dough, stuff on top. But you could also argue that it was nothing more than fancy crackers

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