In Full Bloom

THE PLATE IN front of you—and it is a handsome one, weighty ceramic with curved edges—is loaded with a swirling, glossy gob of linguini the purple-black of a winter-storm sky. The dark pasta is floating shrimp and chunks of andouille, all of it slick with a buttery brown cream sauce that promises luxury in your mouth. It delivers.

“It was just added to the menu,”