Los Angeles Times

A rustic French-style tart with the best fleeting winter fruit

In October, I flew to Paris to visit a friend living there. We were there to do research in Normandy for her next book and spent days driving around the French countryside - eating moules frites in Etretat, cobbling together dinner from a French grocery store while staying in a remote 17th century chateau in La Pommeraye - and, of course, drinking lots and lots of cidre.

On one of our last stops at Michel Huard, a calvados producer in Saint-Germain-des-Grois, we were invited for lunch into the matriarch's home, where she ended the meal of roast veal and potatoes with the region's classic, simple tarte au pomme. She explained the tart was simply

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