SOMEPLACE LIKE HOME
ou know that cheesy, old adage about home being where the heart is? Well, cheesy or not, every surfer who’s ever hit the road and found a wave perfectly suited to their approach knows that on some level that’s true. Although the surfy version of that saying would go something like this: when you find a wave you connect with, put in the time to truly understand its idiosyncrasies and earn the respect of its locals, then it can feel every bit as familiar and affecting as your homebreak. Not quite as catchy as
